You heard it here first.
At least that’s true if you don’t follow the international food publications.
There’s plenty of buzz in Asia and Europe where éclairs are shaping up as the latest ‘it’ dessert, and the trend should land on these shores by winter.
The éclair is actually an unlikely candidate for fashionable status.
We think of it is a rather highfalutin treat, but to the French, it’s the first thing they reached for as a 10-year old in a patisserie; a beloved taste of childhood that as adults they’d rarely choose, and then mostly out of a sense of nostalgia.
There’s nothing wrong with the classic recipe of feather-light choux pastry, vanilla pastry cream, and a swipe of bitter chocolate, but the new éclairs have gotten a modern makeover. Stylish restaurants and boutique bakeries are creating innovative versions that bring some 21st century ingredients to the table. In Paris you’ll find éclairs with colorful icings and imaginative fillings flavored with fresh fruits, exotic spices, and varietal coffees and chocolates. Bakers are experimenting with mini savory versions stuffed with smoked salmon and dill or foie gras and fig jam, and even full-sized main course éclairs.
Éclairs are crossing the Atlantic to give us our next sugar high.
We’re already teed up for the next food frenzy. Donuts, whoopie pies, and especially cupcakes have all had their pop culture moment. First the trend watchers chased them down in gentrified urban enclaves, then outlets sprouted up in suburban malls and neighborhoods, and pretty soon they were on the menus of such cultural forces as Starbucks and Applebees.
Each has had a good run, but we’ve had our fill.
What was trendy is now passé. Macarons, cupcakes, cake pops, et al. have become too eye-rollingly common. Our greedy, sugar-riddled souls have already begun casting about for the next treat, and here come the éclairs. If they follow the familiar progression of food faddism, by this time next year éclairs will be on every menu from Michelin-starred restaurants to airport food courts, and trendy brides will be opting for éclair towers in place of wedding cakes. By then, we’ll probably start to look longingly at rice pudding and bundt cakes, but for now it’s éclairs. And if I’m right, pretty soon we won’t have to look very hard to find them.